“Dairy farming is tough … much of tomorrow’s dairy food will be produced by robots,” says a Welsh farmer. Milk prices in both the US and the EU are kept so low that farmers struggle to make ends meet. The Romans viewed “excessive milk drinking as evidence of barbarism” and Julius Caesar was appalled at how much was consumed in Britain. People developed a taste for butter, yoghurt and cheese before milk itself. But cows are the most productive, able to produce several gallons a day. The first animals that humans milked were likely to have been goats, sheep or gazelles. As Kurlansky shows in this wonderfully wide-ranging study, “milk is a food with a history”.
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